Sunnyside Blog
Posted by Andy on May 14th 2012 in blog
Long regarded by the Sunnyside staff as one of THE top shade loving perennials, were are happy that Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’ is finally getting its due as the perennial of the year for 2012. Out of 431 nominations the Perennial Plant Association chose this all time favorite as the #1 perennial in the country. I couldn’t be happier with their choice.
Introduced in 2000, Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’ immediately hit shade gardens throughout the country with is unique vibe. Brunnera’s are treasured for their lovely, baby blue, forget-me-not blooms the hover in dainty clusters above the foliage in mid to late spring, offering a ton of cool color for the shade garden. Yet, what makes ‘Jack Frost’ so special is its foliage, offering season long interest. Dark green leaves are heavily frosted with a silver overly that contrast spectacularly with the deep green veining, creating a look that is appealing both from afar and close. The versality of ‘Jack Frost’ is immense – it can be planted en masse as an attractive ground cover, or take the foreground in a specimen garden; it can be planted along large shade borders or serve as a great contrasting plant to other shade staples such as hosta or ferns. Brunneras are easy to grow in total shade, preferring evenly moist soil; they naturalize quickly and are super hardy.
I have long believed that ‘Jack Frost’ is a must have plant for any shade garden, and I am happy to see the industry agrees with me. So some on in and check this guy out for yourselves, it is simply a plant you must see to believe.
Posted by Andy on May 9th 2012 in blog
For the longest time I struggled finding the right gift for my mom on Mother’s Day – from earrings that wound up in a junk store box the next year, to never worn clothes and unused kitchen gadgets, I whiffed on every gift I gave. Little did I know, the perfect gift was staring me in the face the whole time at work – a hanging basket! These treasure troves of season long color have been my go to gift for the past several years, and the stress of picking out a gift has vanished. Long gone are the days of never-see-again gifts, as my mom longingly anticipates her hanging basket each year, even picking out a Shepards hook to display it prominently in her garden. At risk of sounding cliche, they are the gift that keeps on giving – an endless source of mood enhancing color, freshly cut flowers and the compliments of the neighbors.
As the history of the hanging baskets suggest, hanging baskets were invented to please a woman. As far back as 605 B.C. King Nebuchadnezzar found himself in a pickle. His wife, the beautiful Queen Amyitis who had left her home in a lush mountain region to join him in the desert, longed for the flora of her upbringing. Since the desert soil of his land was infertile, the King commissioned the planting of flowers in baskets and had them placed throughout his castle. Needless to say his wife was quite pleased with the baskets and in the process the king just happened to construct on of the seven wonders of the world.
Posted by Sarah on May 1st 2012 in blog
Did you have a problem with Japanese Beetles last growing season? NOW IS THE TIME OF YEAR TO GET RID OF THEM BEFORE THEY EMERGE! The Japanese Beetle grub is at the surface of our grass and garden soil right now feeding on roots. If you treat the soil in your lawn and garden, you can kill them off before they emerge. Less grubs= less beetles chewing your plants in June and July!!
Sunnyside Gardens carries a chemical control and an organic control to get rid of these pesky grubs! The Bonide Grub Beater works to eradicate the grubs this season and Milky spore is an organic product that will kill the grubs naturally over a couple seasons.
http://www.ehow.com/how_8129399_can-kill-japanese-beetles.html
Posted by Andy on April 29th 2012 in blog
Nothing energizes us here at Sunnyside like our first tropical plant shipment. All of a sudden our once dormant greenhouses come alive and burst with the cool flavor that tropicals bring. From small foliage plants and houseplants to huge ferns, its like having the rainforest plopped down in the middle of Minnesota. Whether you’re interested in having the first pick at some of the awesome houseplants we have or are looking for a giant exotic centerpiece for your garden or pot we’re excited to show you our goods. All of our tropicals are handpicked from some of the best greenhouses in Florida to ensure they are of the utmost quality, and are sure to be head-turners in your garden or home.
Posted by Sarah on April 22nd 2012 in blog
Super Bells Cherry Star!
The coolest annual I’ve seen so far this year is this little beauty. Available in limited quantities for this season, it’s sure to be an absolute hit.
Posted by Brigitte on April 17th 2012 in blog
Spring came early this year and had most of us fooled that the 80 degree temperatures were here to stay. With the threat of frost this Tuesday and Wednesday nights, a lot of gardeners are curious to find out which perennials and annuals can and cannot survive a sudden Spring frost.
The most common question we’ve been getting about spring bulbs and perennials that have started popping up are about daffodils and tulips. The exposed foliage of most varieties of tulips and daffodils can withstand temperatures to just below the freezing point, when light frosts occur.
Draping a thick piece of burlap or a heavy blanket over a post driven next to the growing plant provides a layer of insulation. Remove the insulating covers and mulch as soon as the risk of frost is over. This may require lifting and replacing the insulation each day. Although this method may help protect tulips and daffodils from some damage during cold nights, it won’t prevent damage during extreme cold spells.
The perennials on the Sunnyside Gardens lot have tolerated the cold night spells uncovered very well. We have Hostas, Bleeding Hearts, Creeping Phlox and Prairie Smoke to name a few.
Although the overnight temperatures for annuals such as Geraniums, Petunias and herbs are too cold, frost hardy annuals like Pansies and Violas will tolerate freezing temperatures. After cold spells have passed Pansies and Violas get hungry and will appreciate a little fertilizer to perk them back up.
When in doubt- cover it!
-Brigitte N.
Posted by Andy on April 12th 2012 in blog
We are all starting to feel it – the cool air of winter being blown away by the warm breath of spring; the activity of the city as it emerges from winter hibernation and the days getting mercifully longer. At Sunnyside that can only mean one thing… Pansymonium!
That’s right, Sunnyside is once again going mad with the pansy. We’ve got pansy in every color, ready to blow away the winter doldrums with their color. From pansies in packs to large pre-planted pansy bowls, Sunnyside has the color answer for the wintertime blues. Come on in and celebrate the first signs of spring with us as we celebrate one of our favorite times of the year and join us in going mad for the pansy.
Posted by Sunny D on April 4th 2012 in blog
They’re BAACK! Early Spring, early pests.
If you are the proud parent of a Mugo Pine, Swiss Stone Pine, Scotch Pine or Austrian Pine, Look out for the Sawfly Larva!
They cluster on the tips of the needles, consuming the new, tender growth for the season. If not caught and dealt with soon, the result can be quite tragic, defoliation. We recommend a product called Sevin. A one time application can stop the harmful larvae.
Larvae have black heads, a yellow-green body with a black double stripe and many yellow and black spots; they are 20-25 mm (3/4 – 1″) when full grown.
Posted by Andy on March 14th 2012 in blog
Growing plants from seed can be a fun and exciting project to jump-start the gardening season for the whole family. Growing seeds is a lot less difficult and time consuming than most people believe. Here are some basics to get you started:
Supplies-
-Containers – the most efficient, space-saving containers are the cell-based trays you will find at the garden center, generally 1″ x 1″ cells that make up a tray. Believe it or not, this is all the space a seed requires and will allow you to grow a lot of plants in a limited space.
- Soil – I emphasize a soil less potting mix such as Miracle Grow. Seeds grow much better in a soil less mix as opposed to regular soil heavy garden soil.
- Labels/Markers – trust me, you’ll forget as soon as you pot them whats what, so if you’re planting multiple seed varieties, remember to mark them
- Plastic bags/Covers – these are used to help maintain optimum temperature and humidity.
- Seeds – your choice, Sunnyside has hundreds of different varieties of plants than can be grown from seed in this climate.
- Light Source – A sunny window is sufficient, although if you lack one or are really serious about seeds then a grow light does the trick.
Planting:
Fill your trays 2/3rd full with potting mix. Its a good idea to dampen the soil before you do this to achieve even moisture – add enough water that so the soil is moist but not dripping. Don’t pack the soil down into the cells – gently tapping the trays onto a table should be enough force for the soil to settle, yet retain air. Small seeds can simply be sprinkled atop the potting soil, larger seeds can be counted and planted individually (some seeds also benefit from soaking before planting -see instructions on seed packet). It’s usually a good idea to plant multiple seeds in each cell, as not all seed germinate and ones that do sometimes do not survive. Sprinkle a layer of soil over the seeds – check the instructions on the packet, as most small seeds need very little soil cover (a few seeds, like lettuce, need light to germinate and should hardly be covered at all). Sprinkled the newly planted seeds with water, even if you have dampened to soil before this ensures the top layer of soil won’t dry out and helps firm the contact between the seed and the potting mix.
Once you have your seeds planted its a good idea to cover the trays with a clear plastic. This will help control temperature and ensure the proper moisture and humidity. Make sure you don’t place your tray in a particularly cool area of the house, as seeds germinate best at temperatures of 65-70 degrees. Seeds will not need light until they begin to show, so the top of a refrigerator is a great place to ensure proper temperature. Once the seeds have begun to sprout, remove the plastic cover and place in a window with indirect light.
If you notice several seedlings growing in a single cell you will want to remove them. This is called ‘thinning’ and you can either discard the weakest looking seedling or move to an empty pot/cell.
Once the weather warms you can begin the process of ‘hardening off,’ by introducing them to the outside at increasing intervals. Start by bringing them to shady spot for a couple hours and do this everyday, increasing the amount of time they spend outside. If the temperatures dip, keep them inside. After several weeks of hardening off, if the temperatures are right you can plant! Water well before and after planting, and try not to plant during the hottest, sunniest part of the day.
Posted by Andy on February 21st 2012 in blog
Sooner or later all houseplants need to be repotted and early spring is an excellent time to do so because the increasing amount of light coming through your windows will help the plant acclimate to its new digs and spur growth. Repotting gives the plants roots more space, increasing their uptake of nutrients and prevents the plant from becoming ‘pot-bound’ – when the roots of the plant become a packed, entangled mess that prevents growth.
In general, houseplants should be repotted once per year, although larger houseplants such as Ficus or slower growing plants can be repotted every other year. The most obvious sign that a plant needs to be repotted is when you begin to notice roots emerge on the surface of the soil, or if you see roots peeking out of the drainage hole of the pot. If your plant has stopped growing or is growing very slowly, most likely it is pot bound. Remove the plant from the pot and inspect – are the roots coiling at the bottom? If so it’s time to repot:
Start by selecting a pot roughly one to two inches larger in diameter and one to two inches deeper. Refrain from choosing a significantly larger pot, not only will this most likely look silly, a huge pot gives the roots too much room to grow – the top of the plant will not grow until the roots have filled the pot. Remove the plant from its existing pot carefully – if the plant won’t budge insert a knife or trowel around the edges of the pot to loosen. If the roots have coiled at the bottom loosen them, and if the roots are really long consider trimming – this will not hurt the plant and will encourage new root growth. Partially fill the container with new, premium potting mix, such as Miracle Grow and then center the plant in the pot. Then fill the edges with soil. Water thoroughly to moisten the soil (generally I bring the entire pot to the sink and let water flush through the pot three to four times), if this has caused the soil to receded, add more potting mix.
And that’s it. Return you plant to its eye-catching location and watch it thrive with a regular watering in its new digs.
