Long regarded by the Sunnyside staff as one of THE top shade loving perennials, were are happy that Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’ is finally getting its due as the perennial of the year for 2012. Out of 431 nominations the Perennial Plant Association chose this all time favorite as the #1 perennial in the country. I couldn’t be happier with their choice.
Introduced in 2000, Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’ immediately hit shade gardens throughout the country with is unique vibe. Brunnera’s are treasured for their lovely, baby blue, forget-me-not blooms the hover in dainty clusters above the foliage in mid to late spring, offering a ton of cool color for the shade garden. Yet, what makes ‘Jack Frost’ so special is its foliage, offering season long interest. Dark green leaves are heavily frosted with a silver overly that contrast spectacularly with the deep green veining, creating a look that is appealing both from afar and close. The versality of ‘Jack Frost’ is immense – it can be planted en masse as an attractive ground cover, or take the foreground in a specimen garden; it can be planted along large shade borders or serve as a great contrasting plant to other shade staples such as hosta or ferns. Brunneras are easy to grow in total shade, preferring evenly moist soil; they naturalize quickly and are super hardy.
I have long believed that ‘Jack Frost’ is a must have plant for any shade garden, and I am happy to see the industry agrees with me. So some on in and check this guy out for yourselves, it is simply a plant you must see to believe.
For the longest time I struggled finding the right gift for my mom on Mother’s Day – from earrings that wound up in a junk store box the next year, to never worn clothes and unused kitchen gadgets, I whiffed on every gift I gave. Little did I know, the perfect gift was staring me in the face the whole time at work – a hanging basket! These treasure troves of season long color have been my go to gift for the past several years, and the stress of picking out a gift has vanished. Long gone are the days of never-see-again gifts, as my mom longingly anticipates her hanging basket each year, even picking out a Shepards hook to display it prominently in her garden. At risk of sounding cliche, they are the gift that keeps on giving – an endless source of mood enhancing color, freshly cut flowers and the compliments of the neighbors.
As the history of the hanging baskets suggest, hanging baskets were invented to please a woman. As far back as 605 B.C. King Nebuchadnezzar found himself in a pickle. His wife, the beautiful Queen Amyitis who had left her home in a lush mountain region to join him in the desert, longed for the flora of her upbringing. Since the desert soil of his land was infertile, the King commissioned the planting of flowers in baskets and had them placed throughout his castle. Needless to say his wife was quite pleased with the baskets and in the process the king just happened to construct on of the seven wonders of the world.
Did you have a problem with Japanese Beetles last growing season? NOW IS THE TIME OF YEAR TO GET RID OF THEM BEFORE THEY EMERGE! The Japanese Beetle grub is at the surface of our grass and garden soil right now feeding on roots. If you treat the soil in your lawn and garden, you can kill them off before they emerge. Less grubs= less beetles chewing your plants in June and July!!
Sunnyside Gardens carries a chemical control and an organic control to get rid of these pesky grubs! The Bonide Grub Beater works to eradicate the grubs this season and Milky spore is an organic product that will kill the grubs naturally over a couple seasons.
Nothing energizes us here at Sunnyside like our first tropical plant shipment. All of a sudden our once dormant greenhouses come alive and burst with the cool flavor that tropicals bring. From small foliage plants and houseplants to huge ferns, its like having the rainforest plopped down in the middle of Minnesota. Whether you’re interested in having the first pick at some of the awesome houseplants we have or are looking for a giant exotic centerpiece for your garden or pot we’re excited to show you our goods. All of our tropicals are handpicked from some of the best greenhouses in Florida to ensure they are of the utmost quality, and are sure to be head-turners in your garden or home.
Spring came early this year and had most of us fooled that the 80 degree temperatures were here to stay. With the threat of frost this Tuesday and Wednesday nights, a lot of gardeners are curious to find out which perennials and annuals can and cannot survive a sudden Spring frost.
The most common question we’ve been getting about spring bulbs and perennials that have started popping up are about daffodils and tulips. The exposed foliage of most varieties of tulips and daffodils can withstand temperatures to just below the freezing point, when light frosts occur.
Draping a thick piece of burlap or a heavy blanket over a post driven next to the growing plant provides a layer of insulation. Remove the insulating covers and mulch as soon as the risk of frost is over. This may require lifting and replacing the insulation each day. Although this method may help protect tulips and daffodils from some damage during cold nights, it won’t prevent damage during extreme cold spells.
The perennials on the Sunnyside Gardens lot have tolerated the cold night spells uncovered very well. We have Hostas, Bleeding Hearts, Creeping Phlox and Prairie Smoke to name a few.
Although the overnight temperatures for annuals such as Geraniums, Petunias and herbs are too cold, frost hardy annuals like Pansies and Violas will tolerate freezing temperatures. After cold spells have passed Pansies and Violas get hungry and will appreciate a little fertilizer to perk them back up.
We are all starting to feel it – the cool air of winter being blown away by the warm breath of spring; the activity of the city as it emerges from winter hibernation and the days getting mercifully longer. At Sunnyside that can only mean one thing… Pansymonium!
That’s right, Sunnyside is once again going mad with the pansy. We’ve got pansy in every color, ready to blow away the winter doldrums with their color. From pansies in packs to large pre-planted pansy bowls, Sunnyside has the color answer for the wintertime blues. Come on in and celebrate the first signs of spring with us as we celebrate one of our favorite times of the year and join us in going mad for the pansy.
They’re BAACK! Early Spring, early pests.
If you are the proud parent of a Mugo Pine, Swiss Stone Pine, Scotch Pine or Austrian Pine, Look out for the Sawfly Larva!
They cluster on the tips of the needles, consuming the new, tender growth for the season. If not caught and dealt with soon, the result can be quite tragic, defoliation. We recommend a product called Sevin. A one time application can stop the harmful larvae.
Larvae have black heads, a yellow-green body with a black double stripe and many yellow and black spots; they are 20-25 mm (3/4 – 1″) when full grown.
Growing plants from seed can be a fun and exciting project to jump-start the gardening season for the whole family. Growing seeds is a lot less difficult and time consuming than most people believe. Here are some basics to get you started:
Supplies-
-Containers – the most efficient, space-saving containers are the cell-based trays you will find at the garden center, generally 1″ x 1″ cells that make up a tray. Believe it or not, this is all the space a seed requires and will allow you to grow a lot of plants in a limited space.
- Soil – I emphasize a soil less potting mix such as Miracle Grow. Seeds grow much better in a soil less mix as opposed to regular soil heavy garden soil.
- Labels/Markers – trust me, you’ll forget as soon as you pot them whats what, so if you’re planting multiple seed varieties, remember to mark them
- Plastic bags/Covers – these are used to help maintain optimum temperature and humidity.
- Seeds – your choice, Sunnyside has hundreds of different varieties of plants than can be grown from seed in this climate.
- Light Source – A sunny window is sufficient, although if you lack one or are really serious about seeds then a grow light does the trick.
Planting:
Fill your trays 2/3rd full with potting mix. Its a good idea to dampen the soil before you do this to achieve even moisture – add enough water that so the soil is moist but not dripping. Don’t pack the soil down into the cells – gently tapping the trays onto a table should be enough force for the soil to settle, yet retain air. Small seeds can simply be sprinkled atop the potting soil, larger seeds can be counted and planted individually (some seeds also benefit from soaking before planting -see instructions on seed packet). It’s usually a good idea to plant multiple seeds in each cell, as not all seed germinate and ones that do sometimes do not survive. Sprinkle a layer of soil over the seeds – check the instructions on the packet, as most small seeds need very little soil cover (a few seeds, like lettuce, need light to germinate and should hardly be covered at all). Sprinkled the newly planted seeds with water, even if you have dampened to soil before this ensures the top layer of soil won’t dry out and helps firm the contact between the seed and the potting mix.
Once you have your seeds planted its a good idea to cover the trays with a clear plastic. This will help control temperature and ensure the proper moisture and humidity. Make sure you don’t place your tray in a particularly cool area of the house, as seeds germinate best at temperatures of 65-70 degrees. Seeds will not need light until they begin to show, so the top of a refrigerator is a great place to ensure proper temperature. Once the seeds have begun to sprout, remove the plastic cover and place in a window with indirect light.
If you notice several seedlings growing in a single cell you will want to remove them. This is called ‘thinning’ and you can either discard the weakest looking seedling or move to an empty pot/cell.
Once the weather warms you can begin the process of ‘hardening off,’ by introducing them to the outside at increasing intervals. Start by bringing them to shady spot for a couple hours and do this everyday, increasing the amount of time they spend outside. If the temperatures dip, keep them inside. After several weeks of hardening off, if the temperatures are right you can plant! Water well before and after planting, and try not to plant during the hottest, sunniest part of the day.
Sooner or later all houseplants need to be repotted and early spring is an excellent time to do so because the increasing amount of light coming through your windows will help the plant acclimate to its new digs and spur growth. Repotting gives the plants roots more space, increasing their uptake of nutrients and prevents the plant from becoming ‘pot-bound’ – when the roots of the plant become a packed, entangled mess that prevents growth.
In general, houseplants should be repotted once per year, although larger houseplants such as Ficus or slower growing plants can be repotted every other year. The most obvious sign that a plant needs to be repotted is when you begin to notice roots emerge on the surface of the soil, or if you see roots peeking out of the drainage hole of the pot. If your plant has stopped growing or is growing very slowly, most likely it is pot bound. Remove the plant from the pot and inspect – are the roots coiling at the bottom? If so it’s time to repot:
Start by selecting a pot roughly one to two inches larger in diameter and one to two inches deeper. Refrain from choosing a significantly larger pot, not only will this most likely look silly, a huge pot gives the roots too much room to grow – the top of the plant will not grow until the roots have filled the pot. Remove the plant from its existing pot carefully – if the plant won’t budge insert a knife or trowel around the edges of the pot to loosen. If the roots have coiled at the bottom loosen them, and if the roots are really long consider trimming – this will not hurt the plant and will encourage new root growth. Partially fill the container with new, premium potting mix, such as Miracle Grow and then center the plant in the pot. Then fill the edges with soil. Water thoroughly to moisten the soil (generally I bring the entire pot to the sink and let water flush through the pot three to four times), if this has caused the soil to receded, add more potting mix.
And that’s it. Return you plant to its eye-catching location and watch it thrive with a regular watering in its new digs.
The Sunnyside gang would like to thank you all for another wonderful year. As we prepare to close down for the season we are already excited for the 2012 season – anticipating another great gardening year with some tantalizing new ideas. Happy Holidays! We look forward to seeing you come March.
Globe ice lanterns are all the rage in Minneapolis thanks to Jennifer Hedberg and her now famous installations around town. Local businesses in proximity to us in the Linden Hills neighborhood have embraced the winter light displays for the warming, wonderful feeling they exhibit on chilly winter nights.
After making several here at the store we’ve concluded that ice lantern creation is really fun and suitable for folks of all ages. Enjoy!
A common question circulating around the garden center these days is “when, and how, do I prune my hydrangeas?” Luckily hydrangea care is pretty easy, as long as you follow hydrangea rule #1 – know your hydrangea.
There are three basic types of hydrangeas grown in our climate, and when and how you prune them is directly related to which hydrangea you are pruning:
Smooth hydrangeas (hydrangea aborescens), which include popular varieties such the ‘Annabelle’ and ‘Invincibelle’ Spirit hydrangeas should be pruned in early spring, right before new growth begins. Because flowers form on the new seasons growth you’ll want to prune them about ½” above the first pair of buds as they emerge in early spring.
Panicle Hydrangeas (hydrangea paniculata) is a large hydrangea family that encompasses such favorites like ‘Limelight,’ ‘Quickfire,’ ‘Tardiva,’ ‘Pink Diamond’ and the stellar new ‘Vanilla Strawberry’ hydrangea. With this family of hydrangea you will want to prune in the fall, after you hydrangea is done blooming. You also have the option of thinning out your hydrangea by pruning out some of the branches – this will result in fewer, but larger, flowers.
Big-leaf Hydrangea (hydrangea macrophylla) are known exclusively in this climate as the ‘Endless Summer’ series of hydrangeas. This group includes the blue/pink blooming classic, along with newer varieties like ‘Blushing Bride’ and ‘Twist n Shout.’ These hydrangeas bloom on old and new wood and rarely require any pruning, save removing some of the dead branches in spring.
Another common hydrangea question is a little trickier – ‘why isn’t my hydrangea blooming?”
There are several answers to this question, and a few are, frustratingly, beyond the gardener’s control. Almost all of the non-blooming hydrangeas people inquire about are Big-leaf Hydrangeas (hydrangea macrophylla). The first thing you should check for is sun. Hydrangeas (save the Annabelle) need a generous amount of sun to bloom. If your hydrangea is in the shade try moving it to a sunnier location. Another reason for a non-blooming hydrangea could be our unreasonable Old Man Winter. Because the flower buds for hydrangea macrophylla form in the fall, after the current season blooms are spent, these buds will have to tough out an entire winter. Sometimes they succumb to a harsh winter season and are unable to recoup for the season, resulting in what is basically a year off from flowering. And, since the flower buds emerge in fall they are susceptible to being pruned off by even the most well-intentioned gardener. Although the ‘Endless Summer’ series blooms on old and new wood they still should be treated as if the blooms come from old growth and fall pruning should be done carefully, if at all. If all else fails, try a hydrangea in another family that is known for blooming on new growth – these will result in less winter problems and are generally more prolific bloomers.
Japanese Beetles are in town! Have you noticed some of your garden plants may look chewed and lacey? Or have you seen clusters of flying beetles settled on certain ornamentals? More than likely you have Japanese Beetles. They emerged from the ground in the last few weeks to wreck havoc in the garden.
Japanese Beetles, or Popillia Japonica, are metallic green beetles with bronze wing covers. They chew on shrubs, vines and many other ornamentals, skeletonizing or defoliating them completely. So, how do you get rid of them? The answer is two fold- control the adults, which you can see now and control the grubs, which you won’t see until next season. The adult beetles on your plants now are busy feeding and breeding. They lay eggs in the soil which grow into grubs that feed on the roots of your plants and grass. Treat your lawn and garden now or through early fall and you should see less beetles emerge from the ground in Summer 2012.
Stop by Sunnyside and our staff can recommend the right Japanese Beetle controls for you. We carry natural, organic and chemical controls that can save your plants from these pesky garden invaders.
The coolest trend on the West coast has made it’s way to the mid-West, Woolly Pockets. For the last few years a couple of friends from Berkeley have been marketing the idea that you can hang plants like you would a piece of art, on the wall. Beautiful living art that anyone can create, everyone can appreciate and no one needs to fuss over. Have a wall? If you answered, yes, then you are the perfect candidate for a Woolly Pocket. Like clean air? Spider plants clean indoor air spaces better than any other houseplant. So, why not plant a spider plant in a pocket in your kids room? Or make a decorative wall of ferns in a dark office space. The possibilities are endless.
Now is a great time to add that top dressing to your beautiful garden beds. We’ll help get you going by offering free local delivery of bags of mulch when you buy 10 bags or more.
Sunnyside has the following varieties of mulch available:
Cypress, Cedar, Cocoa Shell, Brown, Red, Mini Pine Bark, and Regular Pine Bark.
All mulch comes in 2 cubic feet bags.
Wondering how many bags you would need for your yard?
Here are some approximations:
Bag Volume= 2 cubic feet
1 cubic yard= 27 cubic feet
1/2 Yard @1″ Depth= 7 bags covers 160 square feet
1/2 Yard @2″ Depth= 7 bags covers 80 square feet
1 Yard @1″ Depth=14 bags covers 320 square feet
1 Yard @2″ Depth= 14 bags covers 160 square feet
Mulch will help keep the weeds down, retain moisture in the soil and give your garden the finished backdrop to make your plants POP!
“Trying to describe the many colors of Coleus is like trying to describe the Grand Canyon. You can’t do it justice in words alone, it is one of those things you really have to see for yourself.” – Chris
Looking for that perfect foliage plant for your container? Or a splash of serious color in your garden? Or an instant solution to that tired looking focal point in your garden? Think Sun Coleus. With our huge selection of Sun Coleus here at Sunnyside, we have a serious color solution for any gardener.
Discovered by Karl Blume in the 1820’s on the Dutch colonial island of Java, Coleus (Solenostemon) quickly became popular in Victorian English gardens – where excitement over new varieties led to exorbitant prices at plant auctions. Unfortunately the early Coleus trend waned as gardeners lost interest in the limited varieties, and Coleus became relegated to the shade garden, where the Wizard Series of Coleus has become a popular mainstay. That is until now!
Beginning in the early 1990’s the explosion of new varieties in the Sun Coleus family has grown exponentially and with the wide array of color choices available Coleus has once again assumed its rightful place as a versatile and sought after plant choice for gardeners. From the bright colored Coleus that electrify a border or containers to darker colors that add depth and contrast, Sun Coleus offers a little of everything for the gardener.
Coleus are easy to grow – they require well-drained soil and a semi-regular watering regimen, but beyond that work in a variety of situations – from the container to the border, as a single specimen plant that also looks great in mass plantings. Sun Coleus will grow in shady areas, but the colors become more enhanced and vibrant in the sun.
Come check out our huge selection of Coleus and find the right color choice for your unique gardening style. Fair warning though – it will be tough to leave with just one!
Pictured: Just a few of the varities Sunnyside is excited to carry.
Keep the weeds from winning this season by applying a dose of Preen weed prevention. No, I don’t get paid to say that, but maybe I should! There are some easy ways to make gardening more enjoyable and/or to lower your garden maintenance bills, Preen is one of those inventions that I can’t do without in my garden.
Picture an imaginary saran wrap layer covering your plant beds. That’s what Preen and Corn Gluten can provide, a blanket of protection that keeps weeds down.
(Next: Stop Japanese Beatles before they get a chance to get going.)
